Bars + Lounges : USA : IL : Chicago : The Barrelhouse Flat
Bars + Lounges : USA : IL : Chicago : The Barrelhouse Flat
It's 7:07 p.m. on a warm recent Saturday, and a light crowd has gravitated to the long first-floor bar of The Barrelhouse Flat, in Chicago's Lincoln Park neighborhood. By the look of their clothes, some patrons have wandered over from Wrigley Field. Other groups, a bit older in age, have taken seats at a windowside table for a few light bites and cocktails. Fading daylight still pours through the big panes, pooling on the barroom's tiled floor. It's about an hour into the evening service, and the pervading mood is cheerful and relaxed.
For the time being, the bar itself remains dressed in full regalia; its wood surface has been wiped clean to a lacquered shine, ice bins are replete with Kold-Draft cubes, bottles of housemade syrups are topped off, and cups holding fresh mint and brandied cherries are filled to their brims. The coming late-night crush is still hours off, and the place is still looking its best. And for the first time, I know just how much effort it takes to get a top-notch cocktail bar like Barrelhouse up and running for the evening.
It takes, I learned, the juicing of countless citrus fruits. It takes an enviable stockpile of spirits, wine, and beer. And it takes three to four nice-sized pig heads, split in half right down the middle. But more on those later.
I'd arrived at Barrelhouse Flat around 4 p.m. that afternoon. Owner Stephen Cole had graciously granted my request to shadow the staff during their prep, service, and closing, with the goal of coming away with an unfettered look at what makes the place tick. Since it opened in October of 2011, Barrelhouse has steadily garnered attention, first locally and, more recently, from a national audience, as one of Chicago's most exciting cocktail bars. The latest accolade came last month, when it was named one of the 10 best new bars in the U.S. by Jim Meehan, head bartender at the first James Beard Award-winning cocktail bar, New York City's PDT.
Cole has a deep culinary background. He refined his cocktail craft during a long stint at The Violet Hour, which is often credited as Chicago's first modern craft cocktail destination. He and general manager Greg Buttera have pushed the bar staff—many of whom have been working at Barrelhouse since it opened—to master dozens of classic cocktails (the permanent list includes more than 60 old-school drinks, many revived from dusty, forgotten tomes) as well as create their own original drinks. The team of bartenders submit recipes to Cole every month for inclusion on the bar's rotating menu of 10 featured drinks. In addition to the classics and newly crafted cocktails, Barrelhouse also offers punch service that ranges from a cup to a $175 shareable "flowing bowl."
Observing the staff in action, it was clear that they take service and quality very seriously, but without allowing the bar to feel stuffy or elitist. It's your friendly neighborhood bar, with some of the best drinks in town.
The Barrelhouse Flat Review by Dana F : Chicago, IL
Brought to you by Stephen Cole of Violet Hour, The Barrelhouse Flat touts one of the most comprehensive and voluminous lists of classic cocktails that I have ever seen. Shaken, stirred, mezcal, gin...you can find all and more neatly organized (by liquor used and method to mix) on an easy-to-navigate drink list. It's really admirable to see that The Barrelhouse Flat is putting forth its best effort to revive cocktails that may have fallen from favor since the mid-1900s and preserve the recipes for these creations.
The speakeasy atmosphere is tastefully done. The first floor has a very "saloon" feel with wooden benches and an antique piano; the second floor has a bit more space and lots of vintage-looking furniture (patterned wallpaper, wooden tables, etc.) Best of all, it doesn't have the 1) ridiculously long line and 2) sometimes obnoxious and loud clientele that the Violet Hour does.
So, for the evening's bender, I drank the following:
Old Fashioned - The true test of a cocktail establishment is to see how they make one of my favorite drinks. Many times, an Old Fashioned can take on a medicinal taste, either from the abuse/overuse of whiskey or bitters. The whiskey and bitters in this particular cocktail were so incredibly balanced; it could not have been a smoother drink. Hat tip to the bartender for this!
Lion's Tail - Could it possibly get better than the Old Fashioned? Yes! Bourbon, lime, bitters, and pimento dram were combined in a slightly spicy and earthy drink. This was the perfect drink for a cold day because the pimento dram and bourbon provide flavors that are so reminiscent of winter spices.
Pegu Club - One of my favorite cocktails because it is so refreshing (it must be the gin!). The citrus flavors (lime and orange) were both great without being overly acidic. The danger of the Pegu Club is that you can hardly taste the gin (but once I got up from my chair, the gin kindly reminded me of its presence).
Clover Club - I am really self-conscious when ordering a pink cocktail, especially if I'm hanging out with a group of guys who know me for my affinity for whiskey. It's a good thing I overcame my insecurity because the cocktail was a delicious combination of sweet and tangy; the raspberry flavor really came through.
How I managed to enjoy four cocktails AND mix whiskey, tequila, and gin AND not be hungover the next day is a story that is neither here nor there. What I will share with you is that I plan to return to The Barrelhouse Flat and explore the expansive cocktail menu, in hopes of discovering something new.
Many ingredients, such as Pimento Dram, have been impossible to find until recent years with the resurgence of cocktails.
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Sources : The Barrelhouse Flat Photo | The Barrelhouse Flat Information | The Barrelhouse Flat Review
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